COSMOS NATURAL is a European standard for natural cosmetics, audited by an independent certification body. It governs four things: the natural origin of the ingredients, the permitted processing methods, a list of exclusions (silicones, mineral oils and PEGs among them), and eco-design of the packaging. Its difference from COSMOS ORGANIC comes down to a single point: the minimum thresholds for ingredients from organic farming.
Who certifies, and why it changes everything
COSMOS, for COSMetic Organic and natural Standard, came out of the harmonisation of several European certifications that coexisted with different criteria. Five long-standing bodies, including Ecocert and Cosmébio in France, joined forces to create a shared standard.
The essential point: this is not a self-declaration by the brand, but third-party certification. An independent body audits the formula ingredient by ingredient, the processes, the production sites, the labelling and the packaging, with regular checks to keep the certification. That is the whole difference between a promise and a proof, in a market where the words "natural", "clean" and "eco-designed" are governed by nothing at all.
What the certification guarantees in practice
| Pillar | What is checked |
|---|---|
| Naturalness | Every ingredient is classified by its origin and its processing, which allows a percentage calculated by a prescribed method to be displayed |
| Processes | Only environmentally respectful transformations are permitted. Ethoxylation is excluded, and so are PEGs |
| Exclusions | No GMOs, no silicones, no mineral oils, no parabens, no problematic nanomaterials |
| Eco-design | Packaging is regulated, as is environmental management of the production sites |
The wording permitted on the label is governed too: a certified brand cannot write whatever it likes. To read an INCI list in the light of these exclusions, see our guide to the shampoo label.
COSMOS NATURAL or COSMOS ORGANIC: the exact difference
The two levels share exactly the same requirements on naturalness, processes and exclusions.
- COSMOS ORGANIC adds minimum thresholds for ingredients from certified organic farming, both on the total product and on its plant-based ingredients.
- COSMOS NATURAL does not impose those thresholds, while still recognising the organic ingredients present in the formula.
Why make that choice for a technical hair range? Because several high-performing actives are not agricultural crops and therefore cannot be organic: hydrolysed keratin, Sodium PCA and cosmetic caffeine are ingredients of natural origin that have been processed. This is not a watered-down certification: it is the same standard, without the agricultural criterion.
Why it is harder in haircare
Earning COSMOS certification is more demanding for a shampoo than for many other cosmetics, and that is worth saying.
The sensory performance of a conventional hair product rests largely on ingredients excluded by the standard: the silicones that coat the fibre and deliver that instant silky feel, the ethoxylated sulfates that produce generous lather, certain synthetic polymers that smooth and hold.
Formulating without those crutches means relying on actives that genuinely improve the condition of the fibre instead of masking it: hydrolysed keratin, shea butter, wheat proteins. What that means for you is a result that builds wash after wash, rather than a cosmetic effect that vanishes at the next rinse. The mechanism is set out in our keratin guide.
How to check a certified product in 30 seconds
- Look for the certifier's name next to the logo. A COSMOS logo on its own, with no body named, should put you on your guard. At KERA NEXT, certification is handled by ECOCERT Greenlife.
- Look at the percentage displayed. Claims such as "98% of the total ingredients are of natural origin" follow a prescribed calculation method. One caveat, though: water counts in that calculation, which mechanically pushes the figure up. It is an indicator of origin, not of performance.
- Cross-check against the INCI list. On a COSMOS product you will find no dimethicone, no mineral oil and none of the excluded preservatives. If you see any, something is wrong.
The full INCI lists for KERA NEXT products are published on every product page, in the Keratin haircare section.
COSMOS NATURAL: the essentials
- It is certification by an independent third party, not a self-declaration.
- It excludes silicones, mineral oils, PEGs and parabens.
- The only difference from COSMOS ORGANIC concerns organic ingredient thresholds.
- The natural origin percentage includes water: it is an indicator of origin, not of quality.
- Always check the certifier's name next to the logo.
Frequently asked questions about COSMOS NATURAL certification
Who issues COSMOS NATURAL certification?
Approved independent certification bodies, such as Ecocert, which audit the formula, the manufacturing and the labelling against the COSMOS standard. The certifier's name always appears next to the logo.
Does COSMOS NATURAL mean 100% natural?
No. The standard requires a very large majority of ingredients of natural origin and strictly governs the few synthetic ingredients it tolerates, notably certain preservatives needed for product safety. The exact percentages are displayed product by product.
Is a certified product less effective than a conventional one?
It works differently. Without silicones to coat the fibre, the effect is sometimes less spectacular at the first wash, but it comes from actives that genuinely improve the condition of the hair and it builds over time.
Are COSMOS products tested on animals?
No, like all cosmetics sold in the European Union, where animal testing is prohibited by regulation. One caveat, though: not tested on animals does not mean vegan. A keratin treatment contains an ingredient of animal origin, as our comparison of hydrolysed and plant keratin explains.
Can a certified shampoo contain a sulfate?
Yes, if it is a non-ethoxylated sulfate of plant origin, such as Sodium Coco-Sulfate. It is the sulfates produced by ethoxylation, of the SLES type, that the process rules out.
Why are so few hair brands certified?
Because certification excludes the ingredients that make a hair formula easy to get right. Formulating a high-performing product without silicones or synthetic polymers takes more work and more expensive actives.
Sources
- Official COSMOS-standard specifications, cosmos-standard.org.
- ECOCERT Greenlife, certification body for the KERA NEXT formulas.
Article written by the KERA NEXT editorial team from the public COSMOS-standard specifications. The numerical thresholds in the standard change over time: refer to the version in force on the official site.